The Performance Matrix

Movement dysfunction in recreational rock climbers

5th November 2014

By Richard Clarke

A dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the degree of MSc in Physiotherapy, in Faculty of Health, Keele University, Year 2014


This study has demonstrated a relationship between a previous history of shoulder injury and poor performance during low load movement control tests of the shoulder and trunk in recreational rock climbers. The patterns of uncontrolled movement most frequently observed during the low load tests were anterior tilt of the scapula and winging of the weight bearing shoulder blade.

No statistically significant relationships were observed between a history of shoulder injury and poor performance during high load tests of the shoulder and trunk.

Subjects in the injured group were more likely to demonstrate uncontrolled rotation of the lumbo-pelvic region during test 3 and uncontrolled lumbar extension during test 4 however these differences failed to reach statistical significance.

A positive correlation was observed between self-reported injury severity on a 10 point scale and the combined movement score for all 4 movement tests.

No correlation was found between the number of days unable to climb or the number of painful episodes and movement test scores.

Congrats to Richard for a lot of hard work - much needed research so we can find the best tests to find movement impairments in climbers.

Richard is speaking at the BMC climbing Injury symposium is on the 15-16th November at the Park Inn Radisson in Manchester.

See more details here


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